Electric Mixer

Delightfully airy and light, this spongy dessert is a good example of the adaptability of a French-meringue base. The cake gets its lift from stiffly beaten egg whites rather than chemical leaveners, such as baking soda or baking powder. (Incidentally, there are no butter or egg yolks either, making the cake fat-free.) Whisking up the perfect meringue is crucial: Overbeating can deflate the whites, and underbeating won’t allow enough air to be incorporated. Similarly, don’t skimp on sifting; you will need to sift the flour and a portion of the sugar together no fewer than five times in order to achieve a featherlight texture. Mix on medium-high speed (never high) to strengthen the cake’s structure. When it comes time to fold in the flour, cut the spatula down through the center of the egg whites, make a sweeping motion up the side of the bowl, then turn spatula over (as if you were making the letter “J”). Repeat until just combined, rotating bowl as you go. Before serving, dust the cake lightly with confectioners’ sugar and scatter fresh berries around it; dollop freshly whipped cream alongside each slice.

Keep this topping in the freezer, in a resealable plastic bag, for up to 2 months; it can be used to make fruit crisps whenever you need a quick dessert. This recipe makes enough for 2 large crisps.

Frangipane, an almond-flovored paste, is a classic filling for tarts, such as the Sugar Plum Tart on page 462.

After making the batter, cook the pancakes immediately to ensure they retain their volume.

We cut the dough into assorted shapes using 2- to 4-inch cookie cutters.

Purchase high-quality pistachios, and pick through the nuts for the greenest ones. After roasting, rub the nuts between your palms to eliminate as much of the brown skin as possible.

This cake is best when served the day it is made. You can bake the cake in the morning and finish it later in the day. It can stand in a cool place for about 3 hours before serving. Marrons glacés (whole candied chestnuts) are available in specialty food stores.

The most time-consuming step is making the coconut curls; in a pinch, you can use store-bought shaved coconut.

For Valentine’s Day, bake the layers in two 9-inch heart-shaped cake pans.

Draining the rhubarb keeps the cake from becoming soggy.

Toast and peel the nuts for the cake and the garnish (recipe follows) at the same time. Bake the cake up to 3 days ahead; wrap well and keep at room temperature. The candied hazelnuts and chocolate curls can also be made 3 days ahead; store in airtight containers.

The fluffy exterior of this cake conceals a delicious pink filling, made simply by combining some of the frosting with raspberry jam.