Fish

It's interesting, sophisticated fare like this that keeps Roly's Bistro constantly crowded. Restaurateur Roly Saul and chef Colin O'Daly are Dublin fixtures.

Forget gefilte fish and try this instead: a version of a French classic called carpe à la juive. (It calls for salmon trout instead of carp.) The fish (opposite) is chilled overnight, so begin the recipe a day ahead. Pour a Riesling.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Makes use of the microwave oven.

A country-style Italian bread and a hearty salad of romaine with roasted peppers and black olives would be great with this pasta dish. Pears with walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese would be a nice dessert.

On the island of Corsica, whole fish is simply baked or grilled for maximum flavor. Local cooks often use mountain trout, sea bream, grouper or mullet, but you can use sea trout, lingcod or sea bass with good results.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A sprinkling of orange peel and parsley contrasts with the spicy crust on the salmon fillets. Serve with corn on the cob and a crisp, cold Chardonnay.

A delicate and sophisticated main course. Look for trout fillets with skin or have the fishmonger fillet two whole trout for you.

Can be prepared in less than 45 minutes.

The slightly sweet sauce is a nice complement to the delicate fish. Serve it with stir-fried green beans and steamed rice.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Start with grilled country bread spread with olive paste, or olivada, available at Italian markets, specialty foods stores and some supermarkets. Or puree pitted, black, brine-cured olive oil in a processor.