Onion

With a hint of smoky chipotle chile, this relish is a delicious departure from the usual cranberry sauce.

Freezing the steak for about 30 minutes makes it much easier to slice; using a grill pan is the simplest way to cook the slices.

I once owned a summer cottage on Sawyer's Island in Maine. The little cove in front of the house, too small to be named on navigational charts, was called Clam Cove by the locals. I never did any clamming — fishing was my thing — but I have a vivid memory of the muddy flats at low tide, feeling the soft-shell clams under my feet and seeing their tiny sprays coming out of the mud as they burrowed down to get out of my way. Soft-shell clams have two oval shells, about two to three inches long, that gape along the edges. Their most prominent feature is a siphon, about a quarter of the length of the shell, which sticks out of the clam. Whole soft-shell clams are often referred to as "steamers," because that is the way they are most often prepared. When salty old-timers refer to "clams," soft-shells are what they mean. Shucked raw, soft-shell clams may be called "fryers" or "frying clams." Frying clams make a superb chowder, but they are very expensive because of the labor involved in shucking them. I prefer to steam whole soft-shell clams for chowder. That way, I save a few dollars and get a fantastic broth in the process. The flavor of steamer broth is sweeter and more subtle and round than the pungent broth quahogs (hard-shell clams) yield. The chowder made from steamers may have a little less strength up front, but it is equal to quahog chowder in deep lingering flavor. To celebrate the difference, I use salt pork instead of bacon in steamer chowder, I don't add garlic, and I use fewer herbs and seasoning, letting the luscious little clams provide most of the flavor. And they always rise to the occasion, producing one of the most delicious chowders imaginable.

You can make the salad with roast chicken if you prefer. Offer purchased sesame noodles as an accompaniment. For dessert, serve sugared sliced plums, topped with vanilla ice cream and chopped crystallized ginger. Look for the Thai fish sauce in the Asian foods section of the supermarket.

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr 20 min

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

These replace the more familiar Hanukkah latkes that are prepared with grated raw potatoes. The croquettes are made with bolbess, the Jewish mashed potato stuffing for goose. But like latkes, they are fried in oil to symbolize the miracle of the oil that is the basis for Hanukkah. In the second century b.c., a one-day supply of oil burned for eight days and nights after followers of Judah Maccabee captured the Holy Temple of Jerusalem from their Syrian oppressors. Fried foods are served at Hanukkah in commemoration.

Reminiscent of fondue, this rich appetizer is lovely served alongside an assortment of crudités and your favorite mulled wine. Be sure to order the uncut wheel of cheese from a cheese shop or specialty foods store.

Spinach, green onions, cilantro and chilies give the sauce its name--and lots of flavor.

This "stuffing" has a soft, custard-like texture and should not be baked inside a bird.

At Restaurant Biga in San Antonio, owner-chef Bruce Auden's co-chef, Mark Bliss, created this lovely side dish. He pairs it with roast pork, chicken or lamb. Cipolline onions are small, sweet Mediterranean onions; they are available at some supermarkets.

Red peppers are teamed with onions, toasted pine nuts, fresh oregano and creamy goat cheese in these luscious savory pies. Purchased Boboli cheese pizza crusts make them a snap to prepare. You'll find them in the bread section, specialty food aisle or frozen food section at the supermarket.