Potato

Eaten with great gusto all over Quebec, poutine was once just a late-night diner staple. It is now served at some of the province's finest restaurants.

No, this isn't more British nursery food: Garlicky, sweet, and creamy, it's a wonderful side dish for roasts and meaty white fish.

You can never have enough potatoes, especially when they're perked up with fennel, which becomes so tender, it lends loads of moisture to the dish.

Lauren Farber of Wellesley, Massachusetts, writes: "I have eaten twice at Lumière in West Newton, Massachusetts, and each time I have enjoyed the mushroom soup. Can you help me get the recipe?" A combination of white and porcini mushrooms makes for a full-flavored stock — the key to a soup that's simple and smooth.

Lighten up: To reduce the fat and calories in the cod, substitute 1/3 cup light mayonnaise for the 1/2 cup regular mayo called for.

Originally introduced in our pages as "an ancient Provençal way of dressing up little green peas," this soup may not qualify as a true bouillabaisse (there is no seafood in sight), but it is comfort in a bowl. And since it uses frozen rather than fresh peas, it can be made at any time of year.

None of us were familiar with clam pie, but we did notice various versions of it printed and reprinted in our early issues. We had to see what all the fuss was about. It turns out to be a superlative potpie, hearty with chunks of vegetables and bacon and sweet with briny clams. Inspired by legendary French chef Paul Bocuse, we updated these pies by substituting puff pastry for piecrust.

We weren't sure what would result from pouring an egg-and-yogurt mixture over a gratin of potatoes. The answer? A thin layer of tangy custard that just melts into the gratin. Like a much more sumptuous version of the sour-cream-topped baked potato, this dish is a welcome change of pace.

Masala Dosas
With its fermented dough whirled into a crêpe-like exterior and its rich filling of curried potato, this classic Indian dish achieves a unique balance. The urad dal, black mustard seeds, and curry leaves are available at kalustyans.com.

These are the most elegant fried potatoes in the world. Don't expect the crunchy snap of a french fry but, instead, a soft, light crispness concealing an ethereally fluffy interior. There are various stories as to who or what "Lorette" is — but the number of French potato recipes named in honor of people and places illustrates how beloved and nuanced each dish is.

A variation on twice-baked potatoes, these are an eye-catching takeoff on a sweet potato casserole. The sweet potato flesh is pureed with butter and milk, returned to the hollowed-out shells, and topped with mini marshmallows before a final baking. You can puree the potatoes in a blender or a food processor; use the blender for an especially silky texture.

Try using Grade B maple syrup, which has a deeper flavor than Grade A, in this recipe. Look for it at natural foods stores.

Leftover ham in the fridge or sweet potatoes in the pantry? This clever brunch dish is the way to go.

This spread has a dose of fiber and heart-healthy fat, plus beta-carotene.