Ricotta

Nudies? In Florentine dialect they’re called gnudi, nudies, poking fun at a dish from the Casentino, a neighboring area that makes their greens and ricotta gnocchi with the same filling Florentines use for ravioli. Nudies because they’re not wearing pasta. Pronounced YNOO-dees. Spinach is used in Florence but wild greens are common in the mountainous Casentino. And ravioli are stuffed with wild greens in many regional recipes. Use wild greens if you can get them, otherwise use chard or spinach, whichever is fresh and tender. Traditionalists may want to search for sheep’s milk ricotta, which yields richer results, but everyone else can get by with whole cow’s milk ricotta. Drain watery ricotta in a metal sieve for 30 minutes if necessary. Cooks in search of a labor-intensive experience can form nudies by hand, one at a time, or use the 2-spoon French quenelle method. I prefer to pipe the mixture from a plastic bag onto a floured countertop, sprinkle the blobs with flour, and lightly roll to form walnut-sized, roughly shaped balls. Serve the nudies with melted butter or tomato or meat sauce, sprinkled with Parmigiano, and baked in the oven to melt the cheese.

The recipe calls for purchased roasted chicken, which eliminates a step.

These can be served as hors d'oeuvres, or placed atop a salad of spinach, walnuts and sliced apples.

I like to think of this as instant, guilt-free mousse. Honey-and-almond-laced whipped ricotta makes the perfect topping for the berries of your choice. Try layering the berries and the ricotta in a parfait glass for an elegant and easy dessert.

This casserole is a delicious meatless dish. Serve it with salsa and sour cream.

Traditionally, chiles rellenos are batter-coated and fried. This version is baked with a lighter cheese filling.

A young sheep's-milk cheese such as Italy's ricotta salata or pecorino Romano (which is easier to find) is best for this salad. Other good choices include Italian Toscanello and Manchego from Spain, which are also made from sheep's milk.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Sautéed mushrooms and warm crusty rolls are excellent with the frittata. Finish with ripe pears, chocolate biscotti and espresso.

"I developed this recipe last winter and think it makes excellent cold-weather fare," says Lora Anderson of Cincinnati, Ohio.

Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 4 hr (includes making fresh pasta)

The shortbread cookie crumbs will hold together in the pan without any additional butter. Fromage blanc gives this cheesecake a light and silky texture.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 40 min