Shellfish

Zuppa di Cozze Come la Fanno a Bosa Like other coastal towns on Sardinia, Bosa also has an excellent maritime cuisine. An example is this excellent mussels soup. Two ingredients unique to it are the grated sheep's milk cheese that cooks along with the mussels, deepening their flavor, and the bread crumbs—some Sardinian cooks use couscous instead—that add texture and density to the mussel juices.

These mussels are a snap to prepare, and make a hearty meal when paired with a loaf of crusty bread to mop up the rich tomato broth. Be sure to buy your mussels the day you make this dish, as they don't keep well at home.

Lauren Beal of San Rafael, California, writes: "When it comes to making dinner, my husband, Stuart, and I have the perfect system. He's in charge of our backyard garden, and I'm in charge of cooking with what he harvests — things like basil, onions, lemons, and even apples. It's our favorite way to create a meal together."

Ciuppin Although many San Franciscans think the zesty fish stew known as cioppino was invented in their city, it can actually be traced back to Genoa — ciuppin is the Genoese term for "nice little bowl of soup." Almost any white-fleshed saltwater fish will do, as long as it's very fresh.

This variation on paella uses Israeli couscous in place of rice.

These crab cakes are amazingly tender and moist because of the generous proportion of meat. The restaurant uses a combination of claw and backfin meat from Atlantic blue crabs.

When my grandmother, Noi, came to America in 1975, banh trang—Vietnamese rice flour wrappers—weren't available, so the use of wheat wrappers from Singapore and China became widespread throughout the immigrant community. While it's easier to get banh trang these days, Noi still uses the wheat wrappers for this recipe.

Oysters Rockefeller were created in 1899 by Jules Alciatore of Antoine's restaurant, in New Orleans, to make use of local shellfish and greens. Named for John D. Rockefeller, this classic first course is likewise rich. Though Louisiana oysters tend to be quite large, it's best to use small ones, such as Kumamoto or Prince Edward Island, for this recipe. The oysters themselves (not the shells) should be no more than 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

Peekytoe is a Maine rock crab prized by many chefs for its sweet, delicate flavor. Dungeness crab is probably the closest substitute.

Use fresh oysters if you can; note that the recipe also tested well using oysters packed in jars. If the oysters are very large, cut them in half.

If you're also making the slow-cooked onion salad , you can cook the cauliflower for this recipe while your onions finish roasting. Steam the mussels and cod after the onions are done, just before assembling your salad.

This simple Chinese preparation enhances the briny flavor of cockles. If cockles are hard to find in your area, you can substitute other small hard-shelled clams (though steaming time will vary with the type and size).

The small size of these French-influenced hors d'oeuvres (cornet means "cone" in French) makes them perfect for cocktail hour.

Camarones al Cilantro Laura Bookman of Weston, Massachusetts, writes: "Can you get me the recipe for camarones al cilantro from Cafe Sol Azteca, in Newton Center, Massachusetts?"