Shellfish

Camarones al Ajillo Guajillo chiles are flavorful, fruity, and only mildly hot. Here, they are sautéed to impart a smoky flavor, then cooked slowly with tomatoes to soften them. These chiles are not soaked beforehand, which allows them to maintain texture. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Cubans call this delicious stew enchilado, and while that might sound a lot like enchilada, the two dishes are nothing alike.

Madeira, shiitake mushrooms and hot pepper sauce make the gravy in this dish from Jack Fry's something special. It's great for brunch.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Nice, being by the sea, offers interesting fish dishes. One of these is poutargue, made with dried and smoked roe, which you will find in some delicatessen shops. The roe should be grated or finely chopped. To every 2 cups add 1 cup chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 cup finely chopped onion, a dash of lemon juice and enough olive oil to blend all. Another dish from the sea is raïto or rayte. This is traditional on Christmas Eve throughout Provence. It is reminiscent of other fish stews, including the chioppino of California.

You won't even need a fork for this no-fuss supper. Include some top-of-the line potato chips and mixed pickled vegetables on the menu, and have ice cream bars for dessert.

Chef Suzanne Goin prepares this dish with Taylor Bay Scallops in the shell, but it's also delicious with regular bay scallops, which are more widely available. Be sure to use a good amontillado, the medium-dry Sherry that is lightly aged to give it a mellow, nutty flavor. What to drink: Condrieu, an aromatic Rhône white made with Viognier grapes.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A nice do-ahead starter for an elegant meal.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.