Shellfish

Serve garlic toast with this to mop up all the savory broth.

The shrimp are simmered and served in a peppery, New Orleans-style sauce-peel them at the table as you eat. Coleslaw, crusty French bread for sopping up all the sauce, and plenty of napkins are ideal accompaniments. For dessert, crullers and coffee with whipped cream would be easy substitutes for traditional beignets and café au lait.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The seafood is cooked in lime juice and fish sauce, making this oil-free salad perfect for a low-fat lunch.

Plancha is simply another word for comal, or griddle.

Low-fat buttermilk and nonfat yogurt provide the base in a refreshing, tangy soup.

I usually forget how satisfying it is to eat mussels this way — splashing into the steamy bowl fragrant with spring herbs — until I'm at a restaurant eating them and think, "Mmm, I should make these again, soon."

Joe Martin was both a hero and a mentor to me. He was an old-fashioned New Orleans kitchen guy who never had national fame as a chef, but he could cook better than a lot of household names. Not only that, he was a great teacher, developing an army of everyday workers who were the backbone of good food served all over town. The funny thing is, for all the people he taught, he never wrote down his best dishes. He used to make this one hunched over like it was a big secret. I pieced the recipe together from some of the guys he taught. Joe, if you're looking down on this dish from someplace where the work isn't so hard, I hope you don't think we're leaving something out!

Israeli couscous, sometimes known as pearl pasta, is available at Middle Eastern markets. You could also order it from Joan's on Third in Los Angeles; 323-655-2285.

Pass these around to accompany cocktails before everyone sits down for dinner.

The secret to the crisp coating in this recipe? Crushed potato chips.