Steak

The tri-tip comes from the bottom sirloin, located just forward of the back leg on the outside belly of the cow. This small cut of beef weighs between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds and is two inches thick. In Europe this cut of beef is sometimes referred to as a “triangle steak,” because of its shape. In the past, butchers seldom marketed this obscure cut because there were only two small tri-tips per beef carcass. Typically it was ground or cubed for stews. But because it is lean and inexpensive it has recently become quite popular, especially on the West Coast. One of the most popular items at a California cookout is the beef tri-tip. Telling a Californian that grilling a beef tri-tip is not real barbecue may lead to fisticuffs. This cut packs big flavor, but it has a low fat content. For optimum taste, tri-tip is usually marinated and/or seasoned and grilled at a high temperature over direct heat. The tenderness of this cut is optimized by slicing the meat across the grain. This recipe stays true to the flavors of the West Coast.

This is a sandwich that was so good we had to take it off the menu! Conceptually similar to a cheese steak, it was offered as a pressed sandwich, and when too many people ordered it at once, we had a traffic jam on our premises. So while you can no longer find it at ’wichcraft, you can make it for yourself. Flank steak is wonderfully easy to work with because it’s lean—there’s no waste, and it has an excellent texture for braising. There are many schools of thought about the right wine to cook with. Some advocate cooking with the best wine, or at least a wine that you would want to drink; others believe in using the cheapest wine available. We suggest going with the wine that you can afford to use for cooking or the one you have lying around. At home, whenever he has some leftover red wine at the end of a meal, if he doesn’t drink it the next day, Sisha puts it in a container in the freezer. He keeps adding to that container, and when he needs wine for braising, there it is. The blend is never the same twice—and always good.

In steak sandwiches, the meat is usually paired with onions, cheese, or similarly rich flavors. We wanted something lighter and brighter, something, say, that a person might opt for at lunchtime without needing to nap afterwards. And so we use fresh ginger (which we julienne like a vegetable rather than shred, mince, grate, or sprinkle as a spice) and cucumber, both very refreshing. While Black Chile Mayonnaise (page 177) does add a touch of richness, this is still a very light red meat sandwich.

We created this for the opening of our Las Vegas store, knowing that it would be the perfect sandwich to have after a night of Vegas-style fun. The richness of both the steak and the eggs is balanced by the acidity and savoriness of the vinaigrette used to season the mushrooms.

The beauty of a dish like this is that you get just enough meat to feel satisfied that you’ve had a substantial meal, but you’ve actually consumed a much greater proportion of healthy greens than of red meat. Plus, it can serve four people on the budget of one steak.

The word braciola is used in different regions of Italy to describe different cuts of meat. But in southern Italy, braciola refers to a dish where a slice of meat is topped with different ingredients and rolled up and baked. It’s moist, rich, and very flavorful, and it’s actually easy to make, although not quick: In order to make this cut of meat moist and tasty, it needs a good amount of oven time. I like to serve it at holiday dinner parties or for Sunday supper. You will need kitchen twine to tie the rolled flank steak.

This famous T-bone recipe from Florence is the perfect steak: The outside of the meat caramelizes when it hits the hot grill, and the light garlic aroma and final drizzle of olive oil provide just the flavor elements to make a great piece of meat into a fantastic entrée.

I love the way the hot steak wilts the arugula, and how the meat’s juices mingle with the dressing. You could make this with any steak (or, for that matter, chicken or pork), but rib eye is the classic choice. Whichever cut, it’s vitally important to let the cooked meat rest before carving, so the juices redistribute and settle, keeping your meat moist and tender.