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Cooking blintzes takes a bit of practice. A nonstick skillet is a great help. The first blintz is almost never perfect; just discard it and start again. The blintzes can be made through step 4 up to 2 hours ahead.

You can make your own pancake mix by combining the dry ingredients and storing them at room temperature in a resealable bag until ready to use.

Any bread is lovely in this buttermilk batter.

You can use shredded Monterey Jack cheese in place of the cotija and queso blanco. Other wild mushrooms, such as shiitakes, can be substituted for the porcini.

For a less formal but equally appealing presentation, you can spoon rather than pipe the filling into the shells.