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One to two hours before baking, remove the ham from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.

Low-fat plain yogurt can be used instead.

Large cuts of meat are often stuffed after being boned. Here, fresh mint, pistachios, and lemon juice bring Middle Eastern flavors to lamb.

Rack of lamb is truly a special-occasion treat. Usually, you need to order it through a butcher, at the supermarket or in a butcher shop. Ask him to french the bones. He will know what you’re talking about, and you will sound as if you do, too. This means removing excess meat and fat from the bones, which looks nice and makes the chops dainty and neat to eat. It is really important to let the meat rest for 10 minutes before serving (it will finish cooking and reabsorb juices). This time also lets you pull together the final elements of the meal.

This recipe is inspired by ones that use flanken, a cut of beef from the chuck end of short ribs. In Jewish custom, the meat is boiled and served with horseradish. Our version uses braised boneless ribs and pairs them with earthy vegetables.

Serve with Polenta (page 377).

Filet mignon can be prepared this way as well: Sear two 8-ounce steaks over direct heat for 3 minutes per side; grill over indirect heat until medium-rare, 5 to 6 minutes more per side.

Grilled knockwurst goes well with yellow or Dijon mustard and soft pretzels. The knockwurst will char quickly on the grill; be sure to turn it frequently.

You can refrigerate the sauerbraten, covered, for up to 2 days. (In fact, the flavors develop nicely when the dish is made ahead of time.)