Spring

This jam has a good, concentrated flavor: The only liquid comes from the rhubarb and berries interacting with sugar and lemon juice. The quick-to-prepare jam also makes a nice filling for tarts.

Carciofi alla Romana Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Flambéing was all the rage in the '40s, not only for its drama but also for its utility — chafing dishes let the cook go home early and let the host or hostess show off in the dining room. Everyone's heard of cherries Jubilee, but we prefer strawberries set aflame in boozy syrup.

Asparagus or peas may be added to this recipe. Gremolata—a mixture of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley typically sprinkled over osso buco (braised veal shank)—is not traditionally used in Italian Jewish vegetable dishes, but it gives this one lightness and sparkle.

·Bear in mind you should only eat the flowering shoots of the garden pea, Pisum sativum. Don't try to cook with the flowering shoots of sweet peas from your flower garden — they're poisonous.

Crusty bread and a salad complete the meal.

The cornmeal biscuit topping adds some crunch to the winning combination of fresh strawberries and rhubarb.

Agnello di Latte Arrosto I always had mixed emotions about this dish as a little girl. Traditionally, it was served at the first meal after Lent, a joyous occasion to which everyone looked forward, including me. Still, there was an element of personal sadness: My pet was being eaten. At Busoler I spent long hours playing in the fields with lambs and young goats, and always found sentiment struggling with appetite at Easter. When the appearance of the first peas of the season coincided with Easter, they'd be shelled and added to the dish at the last moment.

Serve this rustic dish with French bread or rice to savor every last drop.

The sweet yet tangy chutney lends an exotic flavor to grilled pork — or chicken or salmon. The dark brown sugar stands up to the other intense ingredients.

Larry Forgione serves this luscious dessert at An American Place, his renowned New York City restaurant. It's a great treat when local berries are in season.

We adapted this dish from a recipe in La Cuisine Spontanée by Swiss chef Frédy Girardet. Braising the chicken breasts over the leeks keeps them satisfyingly moist and tender. Crusty bread is a good accompaniment.

We seasoned this salad — based on the Middle Eastern bread salad called fattoush — with za'atar, a mixture of salt, sumac, sesame, and thyme.