Veal Stock

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Preheat oven to 450°F.

   Step 2

   Arrange veal bones in 1 layer in an oiled large roasting pan and roast in middle of oven, turning once or twice, until browned, 30 to 45 minutes. Leave oven on.

   Step 3

   Transfer bones with tongs to a tall, narrow 7- to 8-quart stockpot and add 4 quarts water. Discard fat from roasting pan, then immediately add 1/2 cup water to hot pan, stirring and scraping up brown bits, and add to stockpot. Bring liquid to a tremble (bare simmer; about 190°F) and cook, skimming froth frequently during first hour, about 10 hours (use a flame tamer for lowest heat if necessary).

   Step 4

   While stock is cooking, wash leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well. Oil roasting pan again and spread leeks, carrots, onions, and celery in 1 layer. Roast in middle of oven, stirring once or twice, until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a bowl and immediately add remaining 1/2 cup water to hot pan, stirring and scraping up brown bits, then add to stockpot. Cool vegetables and chill, covered.

   Step 5

   Add roasted vegetables and remaining ingredients to stockpot for last 2 hours of cooking.

   Step 6

   Remove bones with tongs and discard. Pour stock in batches through a large fine sieve into a 4-quart pot, discarding solids. Cool stock, uncovered, and chill, covered, then scrape congealed fat from chilled stock. If you end up with more than 8 cups stock, simmer it, skimming froth, to reduce. If you have less, add water.