Name: Almond, Chocolate, and Pistachio Spumoni
Cook time: 45 min
Total time: 12 1/2 hr
Ingredients: 6 cups whole milk; 8 large egg yolks; 1 1/4 cups sugar; 1/2 cup cornstarch; 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, divided; 1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract; 2 drops green food coloring; 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process); 2/3 cup whole blanched almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped; 1/2 cup unsalted shelled pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped; Equipment: an ice cream maker

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Almond, Chocolate, and Pistachio SpumoniJohn Valiant

Spumoni trumps all others as the ideal frozen treat: It's richer than gelato, lighter than ice cream, and smoother than frozen custard. The inspiration for this classic flavor combination came from L & B Spumoni Gardens, in Brooklyn, a favorite spot for this tricolor treat.

Cooks' notes:

•Custards can be chilled up to 1 day.
•Spumoni can be made 3 days ahead.

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