I can understand why my chefs were focused on ossobuco alla Milanese when we visited Milano in 2008, and why so many readers, viewers, and customers at my restaurants tell me it is one of their favorite dishes—in any cuisine. It is, to me, a perfect symphony of flavors and textures and colors: the luscious veal shank meat falling off the marrow bones, the marrow seeping into saffron-infused risotto, the dense sauce moistening meat and grain. And all the richness is enhanced by the counterpoint of a vibrant gremolata topping of fresh garlic, lemon, and parsley. Fortunately, a trip to Milan is not necessary to enjoy this grand meal. With this recipe (and the one for the risotto, page 48), the multitude of pleasures in preparing, serving, and eating an authentic ossobuco alla Milanese will be yours at home. The most work may be finding a butcher who can supply the “tall” ossobuco I recommend: ask to have the shanks cut so each ossobuco is nearly 3 inches high (when standing on end). If necessary, you can use the flatter-and-wider-cut ossobuco you usually see in the market. Be aware, though, that the meat will cook more quickly and you will need to reduce the sauce ingredients so the ossobuco does not drown in the braising liquid.
This classic 15-minute sauce is your secret weapon for homemade mac and cheese, chowder, lasagna, and more.
Turn humble onions into this thrifty yet luxe pasta dinner.
Round out these autumn greens with tart pomegranate seeds, crunchy pepitas, and a shower of Parmesan.
The silky French vanilla sauce that goes with everything.
Caramelized onions, melty Gruyère, and a deeply savory broth deliver the kind of comfort that doesn’t need improving.
An extra-silky filling (no water bath needed!) and a smooth sour cream topping make this the ultimate cheesecake.
This pasta has some really big energy about it. It’s so extra, it’s the type of thing you should be eating in your bikini while drinking a magnum of rosé, not in Hebden Bridge (or wherever you live), but on a beach on Mykonos.
Crispy tots topped with savory-sweet sauce, mayonnaise, furikake, scallion, and katsuobushi.