Caldariello

Preparation

1. Step 1

   With a mezzaluna or a very sharp knife, mince the fennel, garlic, and parsley together to a fine paste.

   Step 2

   In a large terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and melt the aromatic paste, taking care not to color it. Add the pieces of lamb—only those at a time that will fit without touching—browning them until they are crusted well on all sides. Remove them to a holding plate. Salt the lamb generously after it has been sealed. Pour 1/2 cup of the milk into the hot casserole, stirring and scraping at the residue over a lively flame for a minute or two before adding the remaining milk, the cream, the branch of rosemary, and the seared lamb. Over the gentlest flame, bring the mixture to a low simmer, cover the casserole tightly, and permit the lamb to cook ever so slowly for an hour or until the meat is barely melting into its milky juices.

   Step 3

   With a slotted spoon, remove the lamb to a deep bowl, covering it loosely while you strain the pan juices, pressing hard to get all the liquid. Rinse the cooking vessel, return the juices to it, and, over a lively flame, reduce the sauce for 3 minutes. Taste the sauce, adjusting it with a little sea salt, should you wish, and generous grindings of white pepper. Reacquaint the lamb with its sauce, immersing it well and permitting it to warm through over a low flame.

   Step 4

   Carry the casserole to the table, serving the lamb, its juices, chunks of bread, and a good red wine with a salad of bitter greens afterward.