Deeply seasoned and studded with chicken and colorful vegetables, this special-occasion rice is traditionally cooked in a clay pot and presented at the table in the cooking vessel. Many Vietnamese American cooks, my mother included, switched to preparing this dish in large, heavy Western pots, such as Dutch ovens, which conduct heat well and don’t break like clay pots sometimes do. Their easier and more convenient approach doesn’t compromise flavor, and sometimes a wonderful golden crust forms at the bottom. However, if you would like to cook the rice in a clay pot, see the Note following the method. For this recipe, you want to use long-grain rice that will cook up to a chewy firmness. If you happen to have new-crop rice, which tends to cook up more sticky than firm, reduce the quantity of stock slightly, or purchase regular long-grain rice.
To cook this rice dish in a clay pot, you will need a 4- to 5-quart pot. A Chinese sand pot of this size is more affordable than a Japanese donabe. Marinate the chicken and sauté it with the vegetables as directed. Rinse the rice, and while it is draining, bring the chicken stock to a boil in the clay pot over medium heat. Lower the heat to a simmer and cover to keep the stock hot. Wipe out the skillet used to sauté the chicken and vegetables and follow step 4 to sauté the rice in the oil. When the rice is almost ready, bring the stock to a vigorous simmer. Add the sautéed rice to the hot stock, bring back to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and continue as directed in step 5. At the end of step 5, when you lower the heat to cook the rice, it should be between medium-low and low, as opposed to the low heat used for the Dutch oven. Also, listen for a very gentle hiss, rather than gentle bubbling. Proceed as directed in steps 6 and 7. A plastic dough scraper is perfect for removing the rice crust that may form at the bottom of the clay pot. For more on clay pot cooking, see page 108.
