This dish can be made with lamb shanks, knuckle of veal (osso buco), or with cubed meat such as shoulder of lamb. Butchers sell fresh lamb shanks from the foreleg weighing about 10 ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from 14 to 16 ounces. Lamb shanks cooked for a long time have a wonderful tenderness and texture without being stringy, and they produce a rich stock. Although they take a long time to cook, they don’t need any attention. The sauce is the classic Turkish egg and lemon terbiyeli sauce.
It sometimes makes sense to start the dish a day ahead because of the time the shanks take to boil. In that case, let them simmer for the 2 to 2 1/2 hours, then let them cool in their broth and refrigerate. Remove the solid fat, which collects on the surface, before heating through and continuing as above.
