Associate Food Editor: Alexis Touchet
Father: Rodney Miller, Abbeville, LA
When I was a kid, our summer routine started with the opening day of shrimp season — my dad would get the boat ready and out we would go, winding our way down the bayou until we reached Vermilion Bay. He would check to make sure the trawl net was securely tied before tossing it into the water, and would then let it be dragged down slowly along with the trawl boards. When we painstakingly pulled the net up onto the boat and untied the bag, it spilled out a catch of shrimp, crabs, and fish. These fresh shrimp were the stars in Dad's favorite gumbo recipe.
•Andouille or other smoked pork sausage can be substituted for the tasso. Brown the sausage in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, then transfer to paper towels to drain. Stir into gumbo with scallions.
•Gumbo improves in flavor if made 1 day ahead without okra, shrimp, and scallion greens and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat, then proceed with recipe, adding and cooking okra and shrimp.
*Available at cajungrocer.com.
