Quick
Red Onion Preserves
These preserves will keep for a few weeks in the refrigerator and are good on a grilled cheese sandwich or as a condiment for creamy pureed white beans.
Brussels Sprout Leaves in Brown Butter
Browning butter is one of the fastest, simplest ways of creating deep, satisfying flavor. Removing the leaves from Brussels sprouts allows them to cook quickly and evenly, avoiding the overcooking and resulting mushiness that many associate with the vegetable.
Pan-Roasted Black Drum
Black drum is a terrific fish—meaty and satisfying but still delicate. It’s often compared to overfished grouper but is more flavorful and less tough, and its skin cooks up crisp and savory. If you can’t find drum, black cod (sablefish) from Alaska or wild striped bass is a good substitute.
Spinach with Melted Leeks and Cardamom
Dark green curly spinach varieties like Savoy or Bloomsdale have a deeper, richer flavor than the lighter green, grassier flat-leaf spinach, but any spinach pairs wonderfully with cardamom.
Pickled Pumpkin
Use small organic pumpkins or squashes. Before peeling, taste their skins. If they are very tender, they can be left on. Pickled pumpkin is good served with crispy roast pork seasoned with five-spice or on its own as part of a pickle plate.
Seven-Spice Powder
Leftover spice powder can be stored in an airtight container for a few weeks and makes a surprising addition to noodles, soups, and sashimi.
Flash-Fried Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt
The spice level of both shishitos and the fleshier pimiento de padrón are unpredictable—most have a gentle zip, while the occasional pepper, about one in seven, is quite hot, adding some drama to cocktail time.
Hot Tomato Relish
This keeps for several weeks in the fridge and is good with spiced basmati rice, grilled chicken or lamb, or a creamy corn stew.
Eggplant Salad with Walnuts and Garlic
Steaming eggplant gives it a suave, custardy texture that helps it resist soaking up too much oil, setting it up for this rich dressing. I like Anaheim chile flakes here, which are milder than the standard-issue chile flakes. They provide sweet pepper flavor without too much heat.