Gourmet

Francoise Joiris of New York, New York writes: "In honor of our firefighters lost on September 11, could you please rerun the article and recipes you published a few years back about Company 18 of the FDNY? This is our local company, and it suffered a great loss of men at the World Trade Center." We're happy to reprint this recipe, named for firefighter Steve "Gonzo" Gonzalez.

Serve this with sweetened whipped cream.

These supremely easy, wonderfully spicy potatoes are delicious with Panfried Pork Chops with Pomegranate and Fennel Salsa.

This recipe originally accompanied Buffalo Steak and Onion Confit on Garlic Toasts .

The size and thickness of lamb chops can vary greatly, so you may have to adjust your cooking time (see cooks' note, below).

In this recipe, the delicious taste of risotto is blended with the crispiness and convenience of griddlecakes. They can be reheated in a very hot oven at the last minute.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 7 hr

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 3/4 hr

This dessert, called sciummette ("little sponges") in Liguria, is the Italian version of the French oeufs à la neige. One look at these fluffy ovals of meringue will tell you where the name comes from.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr