Gourmet

Salads don't always need vinegar or lemon juice. A mix of Boston and Bibb lettuce, seasoned with only good olive oil and salt, goes well with the more piquant dishes in this menu.

A Dutch Baby—basically a cross between a pancake and a popover—is tremendously popular in Seattle; according to local lore, it originated at a restaurant there called Manca's. Serve it with fresh berries or nothing more than jam or a lavish sprinkling of lemon sugar.

No need to call your local pizza joint. Thanks to prepared dough and bottled roasted red peppers, making your own calzones can be easy and far more satisfying.

These wafer-thin cookies may have been created with Passover in mind, but their shattering crispness and perfume of almonds and lemon make them alluring at any time of year.

This handsome roast elicited oohs and aahs in the test kitchen when Ruggiero pulled it out of the oven, and the succulent meat disappeared in a flurry of forks. The rosemary, thyme, sage, and savory sprigs on which the pork loin roasts infuse the meat and mingle with its mustard and shallot cloak. The luscious sauce is argument enough for keeping a bottle of dry vermouth on hand.

Haroseth, a thick condiment of fruit, nuts, and wine, symbolizes the mortar the Israelites used in Egypt. Roberts's particular mix of almonds, pistachios, dates, and dried apricots, reflective of the Middle East, is outstanding (note that we prefer the sweet-tart complexity of California/Pacific apricots to the bland sweetness of Turkish ones). Enjoy leftover haroseth slathered on matzos or crackers; we discovered it's great with Manchego cheese as well.

Food editor Melissa Roberts learned the ins and outs of making escabeche—a Spanish dish that preserves fish by frying it, then pickling it—at Alicia Juanpere's Catacurian cooking school, near Barcelona. As the fish (in this case, robust sardines or mackerel) absorbs the vinegary dressing over time, its flavor deepens, picking up the notes of paprika and cinnamon, orange and lemon.

Thanks to frozen puff pastry, you can put a stunning dessert on the table in no time. A sweet citrus glaze offsets the rhubarb's tartness, as does a scoop of ice cream.

This salsa verde, which balances a meal full of spiced dishes, would also complement anything from grilled steak to steamed vegetables.

Here comes the sun: Topped with graceful fans of candied fennel and bathed in a golden syrup, this lemony upside-down cake is a cheery sight. The fennel's subtle sweetness and beautiful form are quite sophisticated, but the cake's buttermilk crumb is pure homey delight. A cloud of whipped cream makes a fitting accompaniment.

Most people keep celery salt around primarily for Bloody Marys, but its grassy brightness also pairs well with green beans, which offer a counterpoint to the rich flavors of this meal. Like all dried seasonings, celery salt loses flavor over time—if you can’t remember how long your jar has been in your pantry, pitch it and buy a new one.

Boneless top round roast is a cut taken from the flavorful leg. Here, we sliced it across the grain into steaks that are grilled and served with a Mediterranean-inspired combination of artichoke hearts, olives, and fire-roasted tomatoes.

This amazingly creamy nondairy flan has two stealth ingredients: almond milk and orange-flower water. The former adds richness but no strong almond flavor, which allows the orange juice and zest to shine. A smidgen of the latter boosts the fragrance of the fruit, but most importantly, it slips in something a little exotic that makes this dessert an absolute knockout.

Tortellini are often served in broth, but a quick sauce and some tender asparagus make them more substantial.

Typically a ceremonial dish, haroseth becomes an inspired stuffing—dark and sweet—for Cornish hens seasoned seductively with allspice, cinnamon, cumin, and paprika. The tender meat and haroseth taste wonderful splashed with the rich jus (the Sherry is a nod to Spain), but we love the extra dimension added by the bright salsa verde, too.

Radishes become lusciously tender and mild when braised with butter. Mustard sauce restores just the right amount of sharpness to complement the full, meaty flavor of quick-cooking skirt steak.

The Hot Toddy—for centuries, the classic remedy for a freezing-cold night—is, writes cocktail historian David Wondrich in Imbibe!, "one of the clearest signs I know that there is a providential plan to the universe." The subtle, malty flavor of good Scotch whisky is carried in this instance by a pudding cake, which separates into two layers as it bakes. Eat this while it's still warm from the oven.

Ruggiero freely admits that she developed this recipe out of laziness. Tiny pearl onions require fiddly peeling, but replacing some of the onions with red grapes alleviates much of that tedious work. It's a shortcut that pays delicious dividends: The grapes' juicy pop plays nicely against the pork. A Sherry-vinegar glaze contributes a winey complexity to the sweet onions and fruit, tying the dish together.