Baking

Using canned apricots instead of fresh allows you to make these breakfast pastries year-round. Choose the prettiest halves and reserve the rest for another use.

Use the best-quality chocolate you can find for this recipe; some of our favorites are Valrhona, Callebaut, and Scharffen Berger.

Baking these buns in muffin tins ensures that each one will have a crisp, sugary edge, as well as a delicious, soft center.

These sugar-dusted buns, which are similar to doughnuts but baked instead of fried, have a surprise cream-filled center.

If using dry yeast instead of fresh, heat the milk to about 110°F, then stir in the yeast to dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about five minutes, and proceed with the recipe. The dough can be made ahead through all of the turns and frozen for up to three months; before using, defrost the dough in the refrigerator for twenty-four hours. After baking, Croissants are best eaten within six hours.

These cakes are traditionally served with unsweetened, fresh whipped cream. You can top them with fresh berries, if you like. The recipe is easily doubled.

The kouign aman (pronounced QUEEN-ah-man) is a traditional Breton pastry whose name means “butter cake” in the local dialect. Our recipe was inspired by an appearance by pastry chef Florian Bellanger on Martha’s syndicated television show.

A babka can be frozen in the pan for up to a month before baking. When ready to bake, remove from freezer; let stand at room temperature for about five hours. Be careful not to underbake; otherwise, the center may not set properly.

Once the pastry puffs are formed and frozen on the baking sheets, they can be stored in resealable freezer bags for up to three weeks. Top with rounds of Tart Dough and bake as directed; they do not need to be thawed first.

The French traditionally fill their éclairs with pastry cream; the British prefer whipped cream. Our recipe borrows from both, for a filling that is at once rich and light.

The pastry puffs can be baked a day in advance and kept in an airtight container at room temperature. If they soften, place them on a baking sheet and reheat in a 300-degree oven for about ten minutes to restore their crispness. Let them cool completely before filling with ice cream. Allow three profiteroles per person.

These savory cheese puffs are a specialty of Burgundy, France, and are the perfect accompaniment to a cocktail or glass of wine. We’ve flavored our version with fresh herbs, but feel free to omit them. To prepare the gougères in advance, pipe the dough, top with cheese, and freeze on a baking sheet until firm; transfer to resealable plastic bags, and freeze until ready to bake, up to three weeks.

This famous French pastry is commonly known as mille-feuille (“a thousand leaves”). The name is believed to be derived from the term “Napolitain,” alluding to the tradition of layered desserts in Naples, Italy.

The puff pastry can be baked a day in advance; keep in an airtight container at room temperature. The blueberry sauce can be refrigerated for up to three days.

This classic tart has a filling of frangipane (an almond-flavored cream) and caramelized pears enclosed between two layers of puff pastry. The tart is named for the French town in which it was created. It is best eaten the day it is baked.

Turnovers are always a favorite; their light Puff Pastry shells burst with fresh fruit. Our three fillings provide this classic dessert with a fresh twist: Five-spice powder lends its subtle aroma to pear, peach chunks blend with homemade raspberry jam, and sage plays off the sweetness of summer blueberries. All the fillings can be used interchangeably—simply prepare and fill the dough as instructed.

To help these hors d’oeuvres retain their twisted shapes, thoroughly chill them before baking. You can freeze the formed straws for up to three weeks (no need to thaw), but once they’re baked, it’s best to serve them as soon as possible.

These pastries are a specialty of Naples, Italy. The key to making them is using the freshest ricotta you can find. Do not substitute packaged ricotta, which can’t compare with artisanal varieties in terms of flavor or consistency.

Fresh sour cherries usually appear in farmers’ markets in early July, but the season is short—about three weeks. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, substitute two pounds of frozen ones; defrost before using. To make the strudel, you’ll need a large, clean cloth and a work surface that you can easily walk around, such as an island or your kitchen table.

This recipe is extremely versatile. We love to use it for cupcakes, but it makes an equally impressive layer or sheet cake; either is a perfect choice for kids’ birthday parties, swirled with Swiss Meringue Buttercream. For a more grown-up flavor, try icing the cupcakes with Mocha Buttercream (page 213).