Baking

GOOD TO KNOW In this fruit-topped, vanilla-scented cake, vegetable oil stands in for butter, reducing the amount of saturated fat in each portion. Swapping out a third of the all-purpose flour with whole-wheat flour boosts the fiber content.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Next time you crave a rich tasting brownie, reach for one of these lighter cookies instead. They’ve got just as much chocolate flavor, but far less butter—and thus less fat—per serving.

GOOD TO KNOW There’s a reason it’s called angel food cake—not only is it light as air and divinely delicious, it’s also virtually fat-free. The cake gets its lofty texture from a dozen whipped egg whites folded into the batter; it makes an excellent partner for fresh berries or berry sauce (see note). To make a chocolate version, see the variation below.

SECRET INGREDIENT When puréed in a food processor, nonfat cottage cheese—high in protein but low in calories—becomes a smooth, creamy base for delectable cheesecakes such as this chocolate-espresso flavored version.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Since they contain no butter or oil, these crunchy, nut-studded treats are significantly lower in fat than other cookies. Whole-wheat flour gives the wholesome biscotti extra fiber.

SECRET INGREDIENTS Replacing butter with applesauce and reduced-fat sour cream lightens these brownies, while a double helping of chocolate means you won’t feel the least bit deprived. For the deepest flavor, use high-quality cocoa powder.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Vegetable oil, with no saturated fat, replaces butter in these drop cookies. The dough—which can be whipped up in just ten minutes—also features equal parts whole-wheat and all-purpose flours. (In fact, you can substitute whole-wheat flour for up to half of the all-purpose flour in many recipes for baked goods without compromising flavor or texture.)

WHY IT’S LIGHT Fruit makes a naturally healthy dessert; here, lightly sweetened fresh pears and berries are embellished with only a thin layer of crunchy oatmeal topping. The topping can be made ahead and chilled until ready to use; refrigerate it in an airtight container up to five days.

Although the origins of spritz cookies are fuzzy—some say they come from Scandinavia, while others cite Germany—I'm inclined to believe it's the latter, because spritzen means to squirt in German, which is how these cookies are formed: The dough is squirted from a cookie press. You can make any shape you want, but we love these old-fashioned washboard strips. If the idea of yet another piece of kitchen equipment deters you, rest assured these cookies are so delicious, you'll be baking them more than once a year. A cookie press is not expensive and with all the different shapes you can make from the dough, it will more than pay for itself in fun and entertainment over the years for the child in all of us.

If you've been looking for a chocolate sugar cookie that doesn't wimp out, delivering the dark chocolate hit you crave, this is the one for you. The thin coating of melted bittersweet chocolate, along with a festive sprinkle of crushed candy canes, only enhances the depth of flavor inherent in the cookie's deep brown color.

When it comes right down to it, the simplest holiday cookie is, hands down, this sugar cookie. No rolling pin or sheets of wax paper are required.

The Linzer cookie, thought to have originated in the city of Linz, is based on the Linzertorte, one of the most famous and beloved confections in Austria. The cookies are like mini versions of the torte, which consists of a buttery dough, rich with ground almonds or hazelnuts, spread with jam—usually raspberry or apricot these days, but originally with black or red currant jam or jelly—and then topped with a lattice of more dough before baking. You don't see Linzertortes often on this side of the Atlantic because the Linzer cookie is so much easier to make and delivers the same wonderful interplay of flavors. With its snowy dusting of confectioners' sugar and glistening red raspberry jam filling, which peeks out from the center of the sandwich cookie, it definitely screams "holiday."

If you choose to bake only one cookie from this collection, make it these bites. The crisp cookie base provides the perfect contrasting setup to the luscious caramel-flavored dulce de leche—caramelized milk—hidden under the creamiest cheesecake layer. The final snazzy drizzle of dulce de leche is not essential, we know, but it makes the bites downright irresistible.

A supermoist chocolate cake encased between layers of rich chocolate frosting is at once both a decadent treat and one of life's simple pleasures. And "simple" is an important descriptor here. Because it's an oil-based cake—like carrot cake—it doesn't involve equipment any more complicated than a whisk and a bowl. Two stealth ingredients make this dessert different: unsweetened coconut milk and instant espresso powder. The former is amazing in its ability to add richness to the cake and stand in for cream in the ganache without overwhelming the dessert with coconut flavor. Espresso powder in the frosting magically highlights the depth of the chocolate. Because this cake happens to be dairy-free, it's perfect for Hanukkah, and a godsend for anyone dealing with lactose intolerance. But the cake is so incredibly delicious, no one will notice the lack of cream and butter. They'll be too busy asking for seconds and thirds.

Cobblers are mostly fruit, with the sweet cobbler biscuits floating on top to soak up all the juices. They are a good thing to make when you have an abundance of fruit and a number of people to cook for. Make them all year round with whatever ripe fruits are in season, either singly or in combination. They are superb served warm for dessert but even better for breakfast the next morning.

If I’m going to make a fruit tart or pie, it is most often a galette—a thin, free-form open-face tart. The pastry is easy to make and roll out, and is crisp and light when baked. The dough is not sweet and can be used for savory tarts as well as dessert. This recipe makes enough dough for 2 tarts. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days or in the freezer for several months.

I love fruit at the end of a meal and am easily satisfied with whatever is ripe and in season. However, if I have guests and want to give them something more than fresh fruit, simply baking sweet peaches or nectarines transforms them into a warm and fragrant dessert. All kinds of fruits are lovely baked—pears, nectarines, apricots, pluots, apples—but peaches are particularly luscious and juicy. This recipe gilds the lily a bit with berries and wine. If those ingredients are not on hand, don’t let that stop you; the peaches are wonderful baked without them.

A technique for making cornbread with an extra crispy crust is to bake it in a preheated cast-iron skillet. When fresh corn is in season, try adding juicy kernels to the batter.

Making your own bread is immensely satisfying. At the Green Kitchen, we had demonstrations of two very quick ways to put bread on your table: Darina’s traditional Irish soda bread and Scott Peacock’s buttermilk biscuits (page 33). Neither of these recipes requires the dough to sit for hours while it rises, because neither of them relies on yeast. Instead they are lightened by the chemical reaction that occurs between the buttermilk and the baking soda (or baking powder) when the dough goes into the oven. For this book, I’ve added a third recipe, this one for Jim Lahey’s yeast bread (page 35). Jim, proprietor of the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York, has a brilliant method of making a country loaf that develops flavor in a long, slow rise, but which, like Darina’s soda bread, requires no kneading at all. None of these three recipes is complicated. Darina’s soda bread is something I make at home all the time. From start to finish, you can have fresh bread in less than an hour.

According to Scott, a biscuit should be crusty and golden brown on the top, with an interior that is soft, light, and tender. Purist that he is, he makes them with freshly rendered lard and recommends making your own fresh baking powder: Measure and sift together 3 times, 2 parts cream of tartar and 1 part baking soda. Make it in small batches, store in an airtight container, and use within 4 weeks. A sweetened version of the biscuit dough makes delicious short-cakes to serve with whipped cream and sliced ripe fruit or berries and is great for making cobbler (page 127).