Simmer

A far cry from anything in a bottle, this intensely flavored syrup tastes great over waffles, pancakes, and even ice cream. You can use one type of berry or a combination of berries.

Any type of mushroom can be used in the ragout, but we prefer crimini, which are flavorful, good sized, and reasonably priced. If you use portobello mushrooms, remove the black gills.

This velvety sauce, made with a bottle of red wine and a bottle of port, a sweet fortified wine, enhances any meat it is served with. The wines are reduced with chicken stock for a sauce more intense than the average red wine sauce.

Pacific Northwesterners love their blueberries. From July to September, cartons of fresh blueberries fill the grocery stores and farmer’s markets. The most prized is the wild Mt. Rainier blueberry, which grows in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains in Washington State, but farms all over Oregon and Washington grow the bright blue fruit. Use fresh blueberries to make the sauce only if they’re in season; otherwise, use frozen wild blueberries. The sweetness of the blueberries is a stark contrast to savory flavors, and when drizzled over meat or fish, the sauce takes on another level of richness.

RISOTTO IS A SIMPLE, ELEGANT DISH that acts as a vehicle for a variety of flavors. Adding lemon to risotto is common in Italy, where the subtly flavored dish is often served as an appetizer. I like it as a side to Butter-Rubbed Salmon (page 103) with Blueberry Sauce (page 104) or simply enjoy it as a vegetarian main course, perhaps accompanied by blanched asparagus.

NEW ENGLANDERS HAVE THEIR CLAM CHOWDER; here in the Pacific Northwest we also make chowder with fresh local crab. Even better, this soup can be served cold in the summer and warm in the winter months. Don’t let the jalapeño in the recipe scare you; this soup isn’t spicy. Seeded, diced, and sautéed, the jalapeño loses most of its heat and adds a nice undertone to the rich crab and creamy potato.

WHILE SOME PEOPLE THINK IT’S TOO HARD or takes too much time to make homemade chicken soup, this recipe was originally created for a kids’ cooking class to illustrate how easy it is to make pure foods instead of opening up a can. You don’t need many ingredients or much time; take 20 minutes to prep and 35 minutes to simmer, and within an hour you’ve got a healthy, flavorful soup to enjoy all week.

WHEN COLD WEATHER SETTLES IN, it’s time for this rich soup. Bacon adds even deeper flavor to the classic Italian white beans and sage combination. Using nitrate-free bacon is the best option, for both flavor and health reasons, and it’s becoming more widely available.

THE INTENSE FLAVOR OF AUTUMN SQUASH is magnified when turned into a smooth, luscious soup. Adding yams provides even more depth of flavor, and Middle Eastern spices keep the sweetness in check.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Packed with seasonal vegetables, this soup needs little added fat—just two tablespoons olive oil—and just a half cup orzo to feel hearty. The soup freezes well, so you may want to double the recipe and save a batch to eat during cooler months.

SMART SUBSTITUTION This seemingly rich summer chowder leaves out the cream; instead, it’s thickened with the starch from a russet potato as well as some flour, and just one cup of milk.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Many versions of North Carolina pulled pork are made with pork shoulder, but this one uses tenderloin for less fat. Use light or dark brown sugar depending on your taste preference; dark offers a more pronounced molasses flavor. Plenty of light cabbage slaw on top brings the sandwich into balance.

WHY THEY’RE LIGHT Waxy new potatoes, tossed in a flavorful mustard vinaigrette, easily outdo heavy, mayonnaise-based potato salads, while low-fat yogurt and dill dress up sliced cucumbers. Pack either low-calorie side for a picnic.

SMART SUBSTITUTIONS This recipe is inspired by saag paneer, an Indian dish traditionally made with soft, fresh cheese; here, the cheese is replaced with tofu, which is lower in fat. Reduced-fat sour cream, instead of coconut milk, thickens the curry sauce.

GOOD TO KNOW To release the citrusy flavor of lemongrass, pound the stalks with a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy pot. If you can’t find fresh lemongrass, look for dried in the spice aisle of your grocery store, or at Asian food markets.

GOOD TO KNOW You won’t miss the chicken in this meat-free version of the Southwestern favorite; black beans provide plenty of protein. Store-bought tortilla chips make a time-saving alternative to crisping the tortillas yourself; the chips soften in the soup, adding more heft. Save some chips for crumbling over the servings, and hold off on the cheese, sour cream, and other high-fat toppings.

FLAVOR BOOSTER Roasting maximizes the sweetness of fresh plum tomatoes (and preserves them for later use), perfect for making a delicious puréed soup that requires very little added oil or butter. Use any leftover roasted tomatoes as a topping for pasta or on sandwiches.