Simmer

When tart apple and sweet carrot cook down slowly with smoked paprika they make a savory jam for these fall-off-the-bone tender ribs.

My friend Gori grew up in India. She led quite a jet-setting life as a stewardess for Air India when she was just out of school. Her parents wanted her to settle down and marry, so they placed ads in the matrimonial classifieds. For three years she went out on chaperoned blind dates. Then she met Suresh. It was love at first sight and their families heartily approved. Suresh had grown up in Greenwood, Mississippi, and he brought his new bride home to the Delta. Gori taught me how to make this dish. When we get together to cook I make her tell me their love story just about every time.

I like the browned bits that cling to the skillet, like the socarrat of a paella, when I cook this side dish for my family. I like it so much, in fact, that I serve everyone the fluffy top part and when I’m back in the kitchen I scrape that part off and serve it to myself.

The dance the Mashed Potato was all the rage after James Brown incorporated it into his rousing live show and review with his band the Famous Flames. Under a contract with a recording label that did not think much of the idea, in 1959 Brown took the song down to a friend’s studio in Florida and recorded the hit song “(Do the) Mashed Potato.” So he would not run afoul of his own label, Brown billed the song as Nat Kendrick and the Swans and the lyrics were attributed to one of Brown’s aliases, Dessie Rozier. Soon the nation was whipped up in the craze with two other hit songs, “Mashed Potatoes U.S.A.” and “The Mash Potato Man.” It is fun to use purple potatoes the same color as James Brown’s famous cape to make mashed potatoes while having a kitchen dance party with the kids.

Romano beans (aka Italian string beans) are really just a different variety of snap bean, and are grown and eaten the same way. Broad flat-podded green snap beans with five- to six-inch pods are often called Italian Pole or Romano beans, and varieties include Roma, Greencrop, and Bush Romano. Anchovy paste makes these good; don’t tell folks what is in them and they will eat them up.

The Palestine Gardens is a miniature replica of sites from the Holy Land built down in the piney woods around Lucedale, Mississippi. For sixteen years Reverend Walter Harvell Jackson and his wife searched for a place to build his Bible-themed garden. After seven years of construction, the forty-acre garden opened in 1960 with Bethlehem, Jericho, and Jerusalem all constructed out of concrete blocks, and with its own Dead Sea. It has expanded over the years to include the Sea of Galilee. Jerusalem artichokes do well in the kind of sandy soil and full sun they have down there in George County and will thrive in most gardens, producing the edible tubers and brilliant yellow sunflowers. I like to serve this over Israeli couscous, of course.

This composed warm potato salad came together as a dish for my father. It has all the salty, tart flavors that he loves.

The rhyme that goes “something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue, and a silver sixpence in her shoe” has sent many a bride down the aisle. A sixpence is hard to come by these days, so many brides in these parts use a copper penny from the year they were born to help ensure a prosperous marriage, good luck, and protection against want. A few have a trinket for their charm bracelet made after the honeymoon. Cutting carrots into rounds and marinating them in the dressing gives them a burnished look like copper pennies. It’s nice to serve this at engagement parties celebrating a bride-elect.

My favorite firework is the Friendship Pagoda. A little bright yellow house spins ’round like a top, emits sparks, and then up pops a pagoda and a little light glows within. My son Joe’s best first-grade friend is named Edison Seto. They make quite a pair. I love to see them out at recess walking with arms slung over each other’s shoulder. Joe has had friends, of course, before first grade, but they were all friends of the family. Edison is the first friend he has made on his own. It looks as if Joe is a good judge of character, for Edison is as sweet as can be. Edison lives in the family’s New Sunlight Market with his parents, grandparents, and tiny sister, Grace. Joe loves to play over at Edison’s. I would too; they get to ride their scooters up and down the aisles, snagging Little Debbie snack cakes for each lap. Edison’s family is from China and this has turned Joe into quite a fan of anything the slightest bit Chinese. This soup was inspired by their friendship and by the fine collard greens from the New Sunlight Market.

Once bound by the southeastern borders, pimiento cheese has slowly swept the nation. This soup was just a matter of time. A big batch of this is perfect for Super Bowl parties and such.

The peas, left whole, pop in your mouth with sweetness in each bite. The whipped salted cream browns underneath the broiler and blankets each spoonful with a froth.

Salsify is the root of a member of the sunflower family, although the plants—also called “goat’s beard”—have a flower that looks more like a giant dandelion. The roots range from inky black to golden orange to turnip white. Salsify carries the nickname “oyster plant” due to its unique flavor, which has often been described as “oystery.” I can’t say I agree, but I do like it. The most popular variety grown for cooking is Mammoth Sandwich Island, which looks like a parsnip. “Scorzanera” is the Godfather-sounding name for black salsify. Both types can be used interchangeably in this recipe. When working with salsify remember to treat it as you would an apple by placing it in water with a little lemon juice in it to keep the salsify from turning brown. Peel it just as you would a carrot, working near the sink, as it produces a milky sap that you will want to rinse off.

When I see the river rise and hear the birds sing, I think of my late dear friend Charlie Jacobs and his tune “Rhythm of Spring.” His association between native produce and more innocent days elevates the memory of spring smells to a sort of romance. He beguiles us. And he tells us that from our soil comes the ingredient we need to find meaning. When I make this soup in the first cool days of spring, I’ll serve it warm, and when the days begin to lengthen and turn warm, I like to serve it cool.

This makes a wonderful sweet-tart condiment with caramelized, almost molasses, undertones. It lasts for at least two weeks in the fridge and is amazing drizzled over creamy, mild ingredients such as avocado slices or soft goat cheese spread on crackers. It’s especially good over filet mignon (page 108) and Brazilian Leeks (page 142), which in fact go beautifully together.

This is a Christmas favorite at my house, perfect for everything from big holiday parties to a quiet winter night at home. Sometimes I put a batch of it on to simmer just because its delicious fragrance of warm spice and apple fills the house and makes me happy.

This fabulous citrus sauce comes together in minutes. It is an elegant addition that brightens any fish dish, or try it on chicken cutlets.

I tasted this sauce for the first time in Normandy, France. It was served over Dover sole (page 70) and after I’d eaten it I made my way directly to the tiny kitchen. There the chef rattled off the recipe in rapid French while I frantically scribbled whatever I could understand and asked him questions in my pigeon French. I did, at least, grasp that success depends on using very cold Normandy or European butter (page 25)—believe me, I’ve tried it with ordinary supermarket butter and it’s not at all the same. This is as good over delicate flat fish as it is over richer salmon.

An electric stand mixer makes mashed potatoes dangerously easy to prepare. You may find yourself eating them every night! Just be sure to leave them a little chunky: If you overmix them, they’ll become gluey. I love to eat these as a side with just about anything, especially Chicken Fried Steak with White Gravy (page 106). They’re so good that sometimes I even serve them as an appetizer, spooned into cocktail glasses and topped with a sprinkling of chopped fresh chives.

I always struggled to make perfect black beans, and then my friend from ArtBites (page 63) gave me this recipe, and now my black beans are just as good as my Borracho Beans (page 128)! Black beans are delicious refried (page 130). Black beans, unlike pinto beans, cook more evenly and fall apart less if you skip the soaking.