Pastries

Jiffy muffin mixes were part of the boxed baking craze that took hold in the thirties, and they remain a supermarket staple. Here, frozen corn kernels, shredded cheese and fresh basil are convenient additions.

An Italian twist on an English favorite.

Michael P. Hooley of San Francisco, California, writes: "While I was in London, I went to Fortnum & Mason and had a delicious currant-filled pastry called an Eccles cake. Would it be possible to get the recipe?" These sweet pastries are named after the town in Lancashire where they originated.

"While visiting Los Angeles recently," says Katherine Mollen of New York, New York, "I made sure to get to La Brea Bakery. The ginger scones were the best I've ever had. Since there's nothing that comes close here in New York, I'd like to try to make them at home."

We like to think of these as an American version of gougères.

If you don't have a 2 3/4-inch-diameter cookie cutter, the same size tin can (with top and bottom removed) works just as well.

Plum fans take note: The jam recipe here is a stand-alone bonus, especially if that tree in the garden is overloaded. (You can triple the jam recipe below for a yield of two generous cups and store it in the refrigerator for up to one week.) Pastry novices should also note that this is one napoleon that holds together beautifully when sliced — so go for it.

Resist the urge to chop the nuts in a food processor — it makes them release more oil, resulting in a heavier baklava. Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 12 hr (includes chilling and standing)

Baklava (from the Farsi for "many leaves"), a pastry perfected by royal bakers in the sultan's palace in Istanbul, consists of layers of phyllo filled with nuts and spices and drenched in a syrup. It has become a traditional Middle Eastern Rosh Hashannah and Purim treat but is enjoyed at celebrations throughout the year. There are numerous variations of baklava, many a closely guarded secret passed down within families. A walnut filling is more prevalent in the Levant, while pistachios and pistachio-almond fillings are preferred in Iran. Blanched almonds are traditional on Rosh Hashannah to produce a light color so that the year should be dulce y aclarada ("sweet and bright"). Sephardim refrain from serving dark-colored pastries such as those made from walnuts on Rosh Hashannah, which would portend a dark year. Although purists disdain anything except the classic nut filling, some cooks innovated by adding such items as dates and chocolate chips. Hungarians make an apricot version. This very rich treat is usually served in small portions.

Tender Iowa corn was the inspiration for these terrific biscuits. They are best eaten the day they are baked; extras can be warmed up the next morning for breakfast or brunch. Be sure to serve them with plenty of butter.

(MADELEINES) While researching this book, I became fixated, absolutely fanatical, about madeleines, the plump golden tea cakes shaped like scallop shells. They were something to boost my spirits on the days when I walked for miles sleuthing in search of culinary jewels. I tasted dozens of madeleines, but only a few were "just right." The best, freshest madeleine has a dry, almost dusty taste when eaten on its own. One of my favorite versions is made by André Lerch, an Alsatian baker with a bread and pastry shop on the Left Bank. To be truly appreciated — to "invade the senses with exquisite pleasure" as they did for Marcel Proust — Madeleines must be dipped in tea, ideally the slightly lime-flavoured tilleul, which releases the fragrant, flavorful lemon essence of the little tea cake. Special madeleine tins can be found in all the French restaurant supply shops and in the housewares section of department stores. The following is a recipe I developed.

The small, sweet Meyer lemon, common in California backyards, has a thin, smooth skin and a juice interior and is particularly fragrant. These scones, which are lighter than most, will spread slightly during baking.