Bean and Legume

GOOD TO KNOW Fiber-rich beans and leafy greens offset the richness of sausages in this Italian-inspired dinner. Broiling makes quick work of cooking the sausages. For an even lighter preparation, substitute chicken or turkey sausages for the pork.

GOOD TO KNOW Tenderloin is the leanest and most tender cut of pork. To keep it from drying out, cook it only until its internal temperature reaches 140°F; the meat will continue cooking as it rests.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Because lots of Indian food entrees use high-fat ghee (clarified butter) or coconut milk as the cooking liquid, they can contain more fat and calories than you might think. For this vegetarian curry, chickpeas and spices are simmered simply in water, yet the results are still delicious. Serve with rice or warm whole-wheat pitas.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Traditional split-pea soup is often made with ham or bacon; this version is completely meat-free, relying on a combination of vegetables, garlic, and dried thyme for flavor. It also uses water, not broth, as the base.

WHY IT’S LIGHT For beefy taste without excess fat, use ground sirloin instead of chuck. This chili is also bulked up with extra portions of beans and tomatoes. Briefly cooking the cocoa, chili powder, and tomato paste before adding the beef helps intensify their flavors.

FLAVOR BOOSTER Roasted vegetables are delicious—and healthful—on their own, but for variety, try tossing them with herbs or spices before cooking. Here, carrots and cauliflower are seasoned with cumin; feel free to experiment with similar ground spices. For the best flavor, lightly toast and grind the cumin seeds (or other spices) yourself.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Low-fat yogurt, garlic, and vinegar are combined in a creamy, tangy dressing—without a drop of oil. Walnuts roasted with the vegetables add satisfying crunch and not much fat.

This is a spicy and aromatic stew of chickpeas and tender vegetables. It is delicious served with pita bread, Buttered Couscous (page 79) or Saffron Rice (page 62), and spicy harissa sauce.

I make this soup year-round with fresh shell beans in the summer and fall, and with dried beans in the winter. The other vegetables in the soup vary with the season. It can be put together quickly if the beans are already cooked.

Fresh fava beans have an extraordinary flavor like no other bean. The early beans of spring are small and tender, and a delicacy in soups, salads, and pastas. Larger, more mature and starchy favas are better suited to longer cooking and make a brilliant green purée to spread on croutons. Fava beans require a little extra effort to shell and peel before cooking, but they are well worth it. First they must be stripped from the large green spongy pods, and then each bean needs to be peeled to remove the skin.

Fresh shell beans are superb. A bowl of plump shell beans flavored with only olive oil, black pepper, and salt, with a glass of wine, and some crusty bread—that’s food for the gods, as David says. All sorts of varieties—cranberry, cannellini, flageolet, lima, and butter beans, crowder peas and black-eyed peas—are harvested in the summer and fall, and are becoming more common in farmers’ markets. Fresh beans will cook in 30 to 45 minutes.

Cooking dried beans is as basic as it gets: put the beans in a pot, cover with water, and simmer until tender. What varies around the globe is the variety of bean and how they are seasoned. There are many heirloom varieties to choose from and they are all delicious flavored with a mirepoix (a mixture of diced or chopped onions, carrot, and celery) and a few herbs, and if you like, a bit of cured meat. Cook beans that you intend to add to a soup or some other dish with whole, not chopped, vegetables and remove them at the end.

French green lentils are plump and speckled dark green. They are very flavorful, hold their shape when cooked, and are good for making salads and soups. For this rustic lentil soup, the lentils are cooked until they are tender and can be easily mashed—longer than they would be for a salad. The yogurt garnish brightens the earthy flavor of the rosemary and lentils.

Shelling peas (or English peas), snap peas, and snow peas are the three most common varieties. Shelling peas are shelled, and only the peas within are eaten. Snap peas and snow peas are eaten pod and all. The tender shoots or tips of the pea vines are good to eat as well. All peas taste best when harvested while young and tender. They are the sweetest at this stage, as the sugars have not yet transformed to starch. Shelling peas have a very short season; they are only around while the cool weather of spring is here. Snap peas and snow peas can tolerate a bit of heat and will last into the early summer. Select peas that are vibrant and firm, with shiny pods. When very fresh the pods will actually squeak as they are rubbed together. Smaller peas of any variety will be tastier than larger ones. The edible-pod varieties, especially snow peas, are best when the peas are tiny, almost undeveloped. As they mature and become too stringy to eat whole, sugar snap peas can be shucked like shelling peas. To prepare snap and snow peas, snap back each end and pull it down the side of the pod to remove any strings. Pea shoots need only to be picked over for any yellow leaves and then rinsed and drained before being sautéed or steamed.

The traditional combination for succotash is lima beans and corn, but any other kind of shell bean will be delicious, too.

A mixture of fresh green beans (haricots verts, yellow wax beans, romano beans, or Blue Lake beans) makes this dish both beautiful and tasty. Each variety cooks in a different amount of time, so cook them separately. The same water can be used. Cook yellow wax beans first, to preserve their color. A variety of shell beans can be used as well, but once again, be sure to cook different beans separately.