Chocolate

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Thomas Keller's Bouchon. A straightforward ganache—chocolate and cream — with a two-to-one ratio of cream to chocolate. Some sugar, in the form of corn syrup, is added, primarily for consistency. The chocolate sauce is only as good as the chocolate you use, so use the best you can.

Profiteroles I've been eating chocolate éclairs all my life, which is why pâte à choux–based desserts take me back to my childhood. Cream and chocolate are ideal accompaniments, whether in a cream-filled éclair or, as in these profiteroles, in the form of ice cream and warm chocolate sauce. This recipe makes enough batter for about four dozen profiteroles (it is not one that can be cut down easily); pipe the extra onto a Silpat or parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze. Bake frozen profiteroles directly from the freezer, extending the cooking time at 350°F as necessary. Eat them the day they are baked.

The subtle citrus notes in this dark chocolate tart come from pink grapefruit and blood orange zests. It has a sublime buttery shortbread crust. Do-aheads: filled tart, 2 days; candied citrus peel, 1 week.

An elegant terrine with pretty layers of walnut praline and homemade white chocolate ice cream. Do-aheads: praline, 3 days; sauce, 1 day; entire terrine, 3 days.

A giant cookie is topped with coarsely crushed peppermint candies and melted white chocolate, then broken into irregular pieces.

Chunks of fresh cranberries and dark, milk, and white chocolate chips dress up oatmeal cookies for the holidays.

For best results, use fresh ricotta, which is sold at Italian delis and specialty cheese shops. Avoid packaged brands that include gelatin and preservatives, as these can be watery and have a grainy texture. Prepared cannoli shells are sold at Italian markets.

These soft ginger cookies are dipped in dark chocolate for sophisticated fun.

In this version of the classic Parisian gâteau, layers of soft coconut meringue alternate with a dark chocolate and rum ganache filling. Do-aheads: ganache, 2 days; meringue, 1 day; marjolaine, 1 day.

The thickness and bitterness of your drink will depend on your chocolate's level of cacao, which varies among brands. We got great results with Ghirardelli, which produced a full-bodied cocoa (our preference for dunking the ginger doughnuts). We also used Lindt to good effect, but needed to add more cornstarch for extra thickening. Chocolate with more than 60 percent cacao will be too bitter.

Be sure to use bittersweet chocolate with no more than 60 percent cacao for this recipe.

We used store-bought graham cracker crumbs to save time; if you prefer to make your own in a food processor, you'll need 13 crackers, each about 4 3/4 by 2 1/4 inches. Freezing the tart helps to chill it quickly. If you're not in a rush, simply chill the tart in the refrigerator until you're ready to serve it.

When Abby Cohen of Oakland, California, was in college, her friend Michael Gevelber would receive these cookies in care packages sent by his Czechoslovakian mother. They taste best when made and filled 1 day ahead.

It's best to have a napkin handy when eating these crunchy chocolate cookies — the confectioners-sugar coating can get messy. After Catherine Rieger of Martinez, California, found the recipe in The Babbo Cookbook, the cookies became a staple in her home.

Larry Leichtman of Phoenix, Arizona, writes: "Thirteen years ago, I sold my business in Los Angeles and moved to Phoenix. One of the first things my neighbors discovered about me was that I love to cook. We get together often, and I'm usually the one in the kitchen. Being the cook means never having to do the dishes."

Be sure to use high-quality chocolate here — the flavor really comes through.

Despite being low in fat, these little cookies will satisfy any chocolate lover's craving.