Dairy

This dish was the surprise of the year. The ingredients might seem ordinary, but trust us — it's fantastic.

Amaretti cookie crumbs, sprinkled between layers of phyllo, give lots of satisfying flavor and texture this this apple-cranberry pastry.

Frittata di Ricotta The best ricotta is a farmer's jewel—thick, tangy, and, contrary to health regulations, unpasteurized. But we eat it anyway, at room temperature with a spoon, like kids skimming cream off the top of milk. Around Garfagnana, the mountain town where my mom grew up, this frittata is a staple, but is never served as an individual dish; the frittatas they made were huge and were sliced into single servings. You can't beat it for a buffet. It's also great with tomato sauce on top. Make sure to use the highest quality ricotta you can find.

What to drink: Try these with a lightly chilled Oregon Pinot Gris.

Farro is often said to be the Italian word for "spelt," but it is actually a different strain of wheat.

The syrup is also used to coat the apple wedges and grapes that garnish each plate.

Every visitor to Paumanok Vineyards enjoys a warm welcome from owners Ursula and Charles Massoud. She learned viticulture in her parents' vineyards in Germany; he taught himself to make wine when his job with IBM took the family to the Middle East. Ursula, who is known for her outstanding comfort food, pairs Paumanok's semi-dry Riesling with an onion tart she makes at harvest time. "It's traditional in my hometown to serve it when the Riesling juice is still fermenting. The sweetness of the onions matches the sweetness of the new wine."

This recipe isn't easy, but if you're looking for the wow factor, here it is. Coming at the end of the meal, the dish reprises the flavor of the stuffed dates because each bite packs enormous punch as the sweet, savory, and acidic flavors come rushing forward.

Verjus is a tart grape juice made from unripe wine grapes. Milder than vinegar, it can be used in salad dressings without competing with an accompanying wine the way vinegar does. Look for it at specialty foods stores or online at chefshop.com and terrasonoma.com. What to drink: Pour an Oregon Pinot Noir with the salad and the Herbed Lamb Chops with Pinot Noir Sauce.

Use the season's first wild mushrooms in this satisfying vegetarian pasta.

We modeled these hors d'oeuvres on the little bombs of flavor that Suzanne Goin invented for her Los Angeles restaurant A.O.C. Each bite delivers a huge range of tastes — sweet, salty, and smoky — all at the same time. They're easy to make and completely irresistible; I can't think of a more appealing tidbit to nibble on.

Jonathan Waxman makes his polenta using stone-ground grits because he prefers their coarser texture. You will, too.

Brussels sprouts, sliced very thin, result in an unbelievably delicate slaw. If you have a really sharp knife and good skills, you could slice the Brussels sprouts by hand, but it's much easier to use an adjustable-blade slicer. Since walnuts are fresh and in season, Waxman uses just-shelled ones in this salad. Pecorino Romano varies in saltiness; you may want to add a little more than we call for here.

If you soak the dried chiles in the morning, they'll be ready by evening.

Michele Verdi-Knapp of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, writes: "The best eggs I have ever tasted were at Seven Gables Inn in Pacific Grove, California. Thank you for the recipe."