Gourmet

"I've been telling everyone about the absolutely incredible birthday meal I had at Park Avenue Café here in New York City," writes Sherri Steinfeld Maxman of New York City. "The knee-weakening menu included Burke's famous "pastrami" salmon; a morel flan served with eggshells nestled in eggcups; basil-rubbed rack of lamb with oven-dried tomato ravioli; Camembert fondue with truffle essence; and a dazzling array of desserts." Executive chef David Burke uses the term fondue freely, in this case applying it to a truffle-flavored cream sauce served with a slice of Camembert. He likes to use Hudson Valley Camembert, a blend of sheep's and cow's milk. It is available by mail order from the cheesemaker, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Old Chatham, New York , tel. (888)743-3760.

An early version of this recipe appeared in Fannie Farmer's 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Manti The lamb will be easier to cut if it has been well chilled. Adding the salt to the filling just before forming the manti prevents the meat from curing.

These crackers are wonderful with figs and a big hunk of Stilton

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional sitting time.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

You get a quick sauce when you let compound butter melt on a hot steak.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Chicory, a bitter leaf most commonly used in salads, mellows as it cooks.

Fried artichokes are usually served whole in Rome as a primo piatto, but we found that cutting them into wedges before frying made them a finger-friendly and addictive hors d'oeuvre. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.