Simmer

When making the caramel in step 2, keep an eye on your pan; the best indicator that the caramel is ready is appearance, not cooking time. Just before the syrup reaches the desired color, remove it from the heat; the caramel will continue cooking for a few more seconds.

Be sure your kitchen is well ventilated when you soak the New Mexican and guajillo chiles; their vapors can be a mild irritant.

This recipe makes two kinds of mousse: bittersweet chocolate and milk chocolate.

This sauce can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Reheat over medium-low heat, or bring to room temperature before serving.

The frosting can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Before using, bring to room temperature; beat with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until smooth.

If your strawberries are sweet, you won’t need as much sugar—use an amount at the lower end of our range in step 5.