Fruit Dessert

I hated this salad when I was growing up: It was pink, had too many ingredients in it, and my very Southern family loved it — three good reasons to abstain. During Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, my mother would always go back for seconds, chiming, "You don't know what you're missing." But I knew, all right — an unappealing mishmash of canned fruit and mayonnaise. No thanks. However, as I've grown older my family's "Southern classics" don't embarrass me as much. I've actually eaten this salad many times as an adult, and though I'm not saying it's my favorite, sometimes I need seconds to be sure.

This recipe originally accompanied Lemon-Almond Buttermilk Loaf with Balsamic Strawberries .

To get the look we wanted for this tart, we used grapes in assorted colors and shapes and halved the larger ones. Taste grapes before making the pastry cream. Their flavor will determine how much sugar you use— if the grapes are tart, use 1/3 cup sugar; if sweet, use 1/4 cup.

Mascarpone gives a tangy contrast to the sweetness of pears that have been poached in vanilla-scented white wine.

Here's a nice summer dessert from the Fore Street restaurant.

Probably named for the Russian royal family, this dish gained popularity at San Francisco's Palace Hotel.

Couscous is a staple of the Moroccan table. This dessert version is similar to rice pudding. Cream of coconut adds extra flavor.

This cake keeps well and feeds a crowd. The "crumble" is simply a middle layer of pecans, brown sugar, butter and cocoa.

The nutty, crunchy topping makes a nice contrast to the juicy peach filling.

This is one of my long-time favorite desserts. I have been making apple brown betty nearly every fall since I can remember and still love it for its simplicity and sweet fruit flavor. Early in the fall, when the apples are freshest, you may not need to add water to the recipe, but later, as the apples dry out a little, you will need it. I have found McIntosh apples are just about perfect for this dessert, but use any firm, slightly tart apple. If you have leftover French bread, it makes very good crumbs, but any day-old, firm white bread will do. Whatever kind of bread you use, be sure to leave it out on the counter to dry for several hours before cutting it into cubes. Brown bettys should be served still warm. If they are allowed to get too cool, they will collapse a little.

The ideal summer dessert and make-ahead treat (it can chill for two days before serving). Instead of the traditional custard, whipped cream folded into cream cheese is the easy filling in this version.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 7 hr

A high proportion of butter makes for an extra-smooth and rich icing. For best results, use Philadelphia-brand cream cheese.

The streusel topping adds nice crunch.