Keto

Crema Espesa It isn't uncommon to see three of four buckets of cream in Central, West-Central and Tabascan markets: from thin, sweet and fresh to well ripened, thick and tangy. It's all heavy cream — not the light, low-butterfat "cream" that is cultured for sour cream here — so it has a richer, glossier texture. And you can bet it's not pasteurized, because the process would have killed the natural bacteria that perserves and thickens the riper cream. To me, this thick, ripe cream (similar to French crème fraîche) is one of the great pleasures of Mexican cooking. Mixing a little milk or cream into our commercial sour cream is a passable substitute here, but nothing like the smoother, less acidic taste of this recipe

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 25 min Chuck blade steaks are a wonderful cut — luxurious flavor at a bargain price. They may appear under different names — flatiron or book steaks, for instance — in your butcher case, but they're easy to spot: Neat ovals that are slightly larger than your palm and bisected by a slender white ribbon — of gristle.

For a delicious, quick accompaniment try our Creamy Parmesan Polenta .

Renee brings the flavors of the Middle East to her special Friday-night chicken. Roast chunks of butternut squash and potatoes alongside to cook the whole meal at once. Look for roasting chickens next to the fryers.

Begin the meal with a salad of endive, pear and watercress with a blue cheese vinaigrette. The lamb is wonderful with the onion-potato gratin and boiled haricots verts; Côte-Rôtie is the right wine. A French apple tart from the bakery topped with some sweetened créme fraîche makes a nice ending.

A terrific accompaniment for kebabs.

(COUNTRY TERRINE) My local butcher, Mr. Delasalle, wouldn't part with his terrine recipe, though he gave me plenty of hints. What follows is a recipe that closely replicates his.

Piperade, a saucy tomato and pepper mixture from the Basque regions of France and Spain, is often paired with eggs.

With bacon and lots of fresh herbs, this salad has a delicious balance of flavors. A warm baguette and a good Cabernet round out the menu.

Juicy cantaloupe makes a refreshing salsa for grilled chicken or fish. For a milder salsa, discard all the chile seeds.

Tandoori Murghi Of all the food cooked in a _tandoor,_the most popular and the best-tasting is chicken. The distinctive flavor, texture, and color of this dish are achieved by a particular yogurt marinade, by the use of tenderizers, a special tandoori coloring, and finally, by being cooked in the Indian clay oven. The recipe given here is designed for the conventional oven and charcoal grill. (Household-model tandoors are not yet commercially available in the United States.) The results are very much to my satisfaction.

"I've been cooking since I was twelve, and my husband, Bruce, picked it up during a 'Mr. Mom' phase after our second daughter was born," writes Renee Davis of Cadiz, Ohio. "Although we've since returned to more traditional roles—I usually cook on the weeknights, and he grills on the weekend—we also have a great time coming up with recipes together. Bruce devised this spicy garlic butter to keep lobster tails moist as they cook on the grill." When you want to splurge, this is a sensational and simple dish with assertive garlic and hot (but not too hot) chili flavors.

Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 10 min

I leave the skin on the breasts so I can stuff the herbs and garlic underneath.

What to drink: Sauvignon Blanc or a dry rosé, such as a French Bandol.

A classic roast chicken enlivened with an herbed olivada (olive paste) that is rubbed under the skin. The olivada can be prepared one day before you cook the chicken. What to drink: A crisp white wine or a light, fruity red works well with this menu. For white, Pinot Grigio is a great choice; for red, try a Valpolicella Classico.

Pour a Chardonnay with the meal; if there are kids at the table, offer them apple cider.

The peppers can be roasted and the broccoli blanched a day ahead, leaving just the sautéing to do before serving. This dish is equally delicious served right off the stove or at room temperature.