Nonalcoholic

(Turkish Coffee)

Agua Fresca de Jamaica Mexico has a wonderful variety of sweetened flavored waters known as aguas frescas, which are sold at street stands and marketplaces throughout the country. They are made from citrus fruits, melons, cucumbers, even the sweet-tart pulp of tamarind pods. But among the most popular is this one, made by steeping the dried, deep crimson calyxes of the hibiscus flower. This slightly tart, garnet-colored beverage is incredibly beautiful and refreshing. Piloncillo, the unrefined brown sugar used in traditional rustic desserts, adds a mellow, molasses-like sweetness.

Named for the four fruits that go into this recipe, the drink is a refreshing accompaniment to brunch at Sarabeth's restaurant in New York.